I have received several controversial posting comments describing current events over the past week in Bangladesh by local readers. It is not my intent in this blog to host pollitical debate and these comments will not be posted. I appreciate your points of view but they shall remain private in this blog.
Mike Morris
Friday, August 29, 2008
U.S. Embassy mission in Bangladesh
In a recent orientation program for newly arrived diplomats at the U.S. Embassy Dhaka we heard from Ambassador James Moriarty about the core mission of the Embassy in Bangladesh. He terms it “the Three D’s” -- Democracy, Development, and Denial of Space to Terrorists.
For many of the years since its independence as a modern state in 1971, Bangladesh has had a democratically elected government. However, there have been several periods of unrest and instability of the elected government, the most recent occurring several years ago. At that time a militarily installed temporary civilian government was placed in charge allowing a “cooling off” period in the populace and political parties. At this time, the interim government is planning a democratic national election in late 2008. There has also been a well-publicized crackdown on corruption at governmental levels and in the upper tiers of the business community. The United States is strongly supportive of these efforts and doing all it can to encourage an open, democratic, fair and transparent election process. It is felt that this is Bangladesh’s best hope of ongoing stable government, with the ability to meet the needs of the people, become more responsive to the constituency, and less influenced by inappropriate forces. You can read further remarks by Ambassdor Moriarty by following own the U.S. Embassy Dhaka link to the right.
The United States has been a large contributor to the development of this poor nation. Total contributions since 1974 have been over $5 billion. The budget for 2008 alone will exceed $170 million. This money is distributed mainly via the U.S. Agency for International Development (USAID). USAID was established as a Federal Agency by President Kennedy in the early 1960’s, an offshoot of the post-WWII Marshall Plan, The USAID office at the U.S. Embassy Dhaka oversees the distribution of funding to many NGOs and direct aid programs benefitting the people of Bangladesh. The work that USAID does on behalf of the generosity of the American people has changed and saved many thousands of lives and is helping to stabilize and improve the fragile standard of living for the poor of Bangladesh. There is a great link describing this important work that I have also included along the right column.
There have been episodic terrorist attacks on a relatively small scale in Bangladesh over the past 6 years. The population here is quite homogeneous with a strong national Bengali cultural background. During the unrest that led to independence in 1971 from Pakistan, the clerics favored continued union with Pakistan. That is recalled by Bangladeshis and there has not been support for calls for outrage against the West on any widespread basis here. The Muslim and Hindu religious cultures of Bangladesh have existed together for centuries and most people here practice a very tolerant form of Islam. Nonetheless, poverty, lack of education and a difficult personal economy for many can set the stage for influence from groups promising radical and quick changes. Thus, a goal of successful diplomatic relations with Bangladesh continues to be promotion of a stable and growing economy, improved health and education standards, and respect for the rule of law. Helping the military and police with support and training against terrorism is another useful strategy.
As a moderate, democratic Islamic nation in Southeast Asia, Bangladesh is a land of promise and a potential model for other nations. It is clearly important that the United States remain involved here and provide encouragement and support in further development in Bangladesh.
For many of the years since its independence as a modern state in 1971, Bangladesh has had a democratically elected government. However, there have been several periods of unrest and instability of the elected government, the most recent occurring several years ago. At that time a militarily installed temporary civilian government was placed in charge allowing a “cooling off” period in the populace and political parties. At this time, the interim government is planning a democratic national election in late 2008. There has also been a well-publicized crackdown on corruption at governmental levels and in the upper tiers of the business community. The United States is strongly supportive of these efforts and doing all it can to encourage an open, democratic, fair and transparent election process. It is felt that this is Bangladesh’s best hope of ongoing stable government, with the ability to meet the needs of the people, become more responsive to the constituency, and less influenced by inappropriate forces. You can read further remarks by Ambassdor Moriarty by following own the U.S. Embassy Dhaka link to the right.
The United States has been a large contributor to the development of this poor nation. Total contributions since 1974 have been over $5 billion. The budget for 2008 alone will exceed $170 million. This money is distributed mainly via the U.S. Agency for International Development (USAID). USAID was established as a Federal Agency by President Kennedy in the early 1960’s, an offshoot of the post-WWII Marshall Plan, The USAID office at the U.S. Embassy Dhaka oversees the distribution of funding to many NGOs and direct aid programs benefitting the people of Bangladesh. The work that USAID does on behalf of the generosity of the American people has changed and saved many thousands of lives and is helping to stabilize and improve the fragile standard of living for the poor of Bangladesh. There is a great link describing this important work that I have also included along the right column.
There have been episodic terrorist attacks on a relatively small scale in Bangladesh over the past 6 years. The population here is quite homogeneous with a strong national Bengali cultural background. During the unrest that led to independence in 1971 from Pakistan, the clerics favored continued union with Pakistan. That is recalled by Bangladeshis and there has not been support for calls for outrage against the West on any widespread basis here. The Muslim and Hindu religious cultures of Bangladesh have existed together for centuries and most people here practice a very tolerant form of Islam. Nonetheless, poverty, lack of education and a difficult personal economy for many can set the stage for influence from groups promising radical and quick changes. Thus, a goal of successful diplomatic relations with Bangladesh continues to be promotion of a stable and growing economy, improved health and education standards, and respect for the rule of law. Helping the military and police with support and training against terrorism is another useful strategy.
As a moderate, democratic Islamic nation in Southeast Asia, Bangladesh is a land of promise and a potential model for other nations. It is clearly important that the United States remain involved here and provide encouragement and support in further development in Bangladesh.
Monday, August 25, 2008
Social Life in Dhaka
Social life within the diplomatic community in Dhaka is not unlike that in many small towns throughout the U.S. I have observed that most of the social life revolves around activities at the local American International School, the “American Club”, and entertaining in homes for dinner, BBQ’s movie nights, game night, etc. There are organized sports, community education, some organized tours, as well as community stewardship activities. A number of ex-pats are active in two Christian churches nearby – the Dhaka International Christian Church and an Assembly of God congregation.
Shortly after I arrived in Dhaka, word was out that I enjoy playing bridge. I was immediately swept into the local bridge scene with avid players that get together several times each week. Last week I filled in with a group that included the U.S. Department of Justice attorney working here in Dhaka, a successful Bangladeshi owner of a construction company, and the Bangladeshi editor of the largest English newspaper published in Bangladesh. All very good bridge players and very interesting conversationalists. I look forward to sharpening my game in the next few years as I play often with these and other players.
The American Club is a cooperative enterprise operating as one of hundreds of American Recreation Association Clubs around the world. There is a moderate membership fee, then a very affordable monthly fee. The facility is about a mile from where I live, and includes pool, restaurants, training rooms with excellent equipment, squash court, tennis courts and social meeting areas. It is very comfortable, well staffed, and this is where you’ll find most families on the weekends. I have enjoyed resurrecting my long-dormant tennis game. Court fee is $1.25 for 45 minutes, and a lesson with the onsite pro is $1.50 for 45 minutes of individual instruction. When you don’t have a partner, the “marker” plays with you – matching his play to your level and giving you tips as you go while the level of play improves. League play begins in September and our club will compete against other international clubs here in Dhaka (British Club, Nordic Club, etc). The kitchen at the American Club does a great job, and actually is the caterer that supplies the midday cafeteria-style food at the Embassy each day. (Believe it or not, one of my responsibilities is to serve as the kitchen health-safety inspector of these two kitchens every quarter. I underwent training for this while in Washington this summer. I promise you that careful food prep in Bangladesh is important, so I shall be diligent!)
The American International School in Dhaka is well known in the diplomatic community for excellence in academics and student life. It is a reason that many young Foreign Service families choose Dhaka for a posting assignment. They run pre-K through 12th grade and offer many AP classes. Teachers are recruited at U.S. annual teacher conventions, and many teachers serve here for 2-10 years. The school’s recreational facilities are available to the community members for $35 per year. Today I got to the school after work for an hour on the elliptical in the weight room and this weekend enjoyed their full-size pool, set up for adult lap swim part of each day. It is 2 blocks from where I live. The school also offers a great array of community education opportunities, with classes ranging including crafts, ballroom dance, yoga, many intramural type sports leagues and others. I signed up for a class to learn to play two of the native instruments of Bangladesh – the tabla, which is a type of drum, and a hand-carved wooden flute. I figured this to be a fun way to learn more about Bangladeshi culture with a native teacher and about 6 others in the class.
“Dinner parties” are popular in Bangladesh. These can be formal representation dinners at the home of Ambassadors where American staff helps to serve, host and mix with foreign dignitaries of “strategic interest”. They can also be relaxed video-watching parties with pizza, popcorn and the like. We have a Dhaka diner’s club at the Embassy that ventures out every week to try a new restaurant. Restaurants in Dhaka can be a true adventure – there are hundreds around, but relatively few that Americans feel comfortable eating the food in…
I am looking forward to visiting the International Christian Church this coming weekend. Services are on Fridays, matching the Muslim day of prayer. Activities here begin to pick up with the school year, just as in the U.S. I have not checked out the local Rotary Clubs, but have learned there are many in the Dhaka area, some that conduct all the meetings in English. A number of Foreign Service staff volunteer in a host of stewardship opportunities with various aid organizations, mission groups, etc.
As you can see, there is plenty to do in Dhaka. I plan to try many of these avenues to find friends, build relationships and strengthen the sense of community here.
Shortly after I arrived in Dhaka, word was out that I enjoy playing bridge. I was immediately swept into the local bridge scene with avid players that get together several times each week. Last week I filled in with a group that included the U.S. Department of Justice attorney working here in Dhaka, a successful Bangladeshi owner of a construction company, and the Bangladeshi editor of the largest English newspaper published in Bangladesh. All very good bridge players and very interesting conversationalists. I look forward to sharpening my game in the next few years as I play often with these and other players.
The American Club is a cooperative enterprise operating as one of hundreds of American Recreation Association Clubs around the world. There is a moderate membership fee, then a very affordable monthly fee. The facility is about a mile from where I live, and includes pool, restaurants, training rooms with excellent equipment, squash court, tennis courts and social meeting areas. It is very comfortable, well staffed, and this is where you’ll find most families on the weekends. I have enjoyed resurrecting my long-dormant tennis game. Court fee is $1.25 for 45 minutes, and a lesson with the onsite pro is $1.50 for 45 minutes of individual instruction. When you don’t have a partner, the “marker” plays with you – matching his play to your level and giving you tips as you go while the level of play improves. League play begins in September and our club will compete against other international clubs here in Dhaka (British Club, Nordic Club, etc). The kitchen at the American Club does a great job, and actually is the caterer that supplies the midday cafeteria-style food at the Embassy each day. (Believe it or not, one of my responsibilities is to serve as the kitchen health-safety inspector of these two kitchens every quarter. I underwent training for this while in Washington this summer. I promise you that careful food prep in Bangladesh is important, so I shall be diligent!)
The American International School in Dhaka is well known in the diplomatic community for excellence in academics and student life. It is a reason that many young Foreign Service families choose Dhaka for a posting assignment. They run pre-K through 12th grade and offer many AP classes. Teachers are recruited at U.S. annual teacher conventions, and many teachers serve here for 2-10 years. The school’s recreational facilities are available to the community members for $35 per year. Today I got to the school after work for an hour on the elliptical in the weight room and this weekend enjoyed their full-size pool, set up for adult lap swim part of each day. It is 2 blocks from where I live. The school also offers a great array of community education opportunities, with classes ranging including crafts, ballroom dance, yoga, many intramural type sports leagues and others. I signed up for a class to learn to play two of the native instruments of Bangladesh – the tabla, which is a type of drum, and a hand-carved wooden flute. I figured this to be a fun way to learn more about Bangladeshi culture with a native teacher and about 6 others in the class.
“Dinner parties” are popular in Bangladesh. These can be formal representation dinners at the home of Ambassadors where American staff helps to serve, host and mix with foreign dignitaries of “strategic interest”. They can also be relaxed video-watching parties with pizza, popcorn and the like. We have a Dhaka diner’s club at the Embassy that ventures out every week to try a new restaurant. Restaurants in Dhaka can be a true adventure – there are hundreds around, but relatively few that Americans feel comfortable eating the food in…
I am looking forward to visiting the International Christian Church this coming weekend. Services are on Fridays, matching the Muslim day of prayer. Activities here begin to pick up with the school year, just as in the U.S. I have not checked out the local Rotary Clubs, but have learned there are many in the Dhaka area, some that conduct all the meetings in English. A number of Foreign Service staff volunteer in a host of stewardship opportunities with various aid organizations, mission groups, etc.
As you can see, there is plenty to do in Dhaka. I plan to try many of these avenues to find friends, build relationships and strengthen the sense of community here.
American Recreation Association - Dhaka
Clubhouse, with several small restaurants, a pub, youth room, nursery, meeting rooms and coffee shop
The pool and lakeside cabana are popular during the hot, humid summers in Dhaka
Tennis courts, served by energetic "markers," young men that chase all the balls, give lessons, and fill in if you need a partner. They are all great players, but match their play to your level!
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
Traffic in Dhaka
What’s transportation like in Dhaka? Crowded, disorganized, chaotic – in short, “jungle rules”! Dhaka is a city of 13 million people. Most of them are poor. They rely on walking, rickshaws, “baby taxis” and buses to get to and from work, the markets, and to visit family and friends. Nonetheless, there are also hundreds of thousands of cars on the road every day. The roads are narrow, rough, and full of puddles after the daily rain shower. Although one recognizes absolutely no sense of traffic organization on first glance, there is actually a system of sorts. Driving here is a daily Olympic event, risking life and limb if not fully alert and cautiously aggressive. Here is how it works:
Whoever gets to a narrow spot, a turn against traffic or a passing opportunity first -- wins. When it is bumper to bumper traffic, that means if you don’t nudge the nose of your car in front of the neighboring vehicle, you will sit still for hours. Honking is constant on every street, either to fend off an encroaching driver or bicycle rickshaw, or to warn pedestrians walking out in the traffic lanes that you are about to run them over if they don’t move aside (usually into a puddle…). Sitting still in traffic when everyone else expects you to poke your car into oncoming traffic also unleashes a barrage of community honking. Remember that driving is on the left side of the road here. If you are making a right turn, against oncoming traffic, local custom dictates that you do that with ANY break in oncoming traffic. Although you may be sure to be hit by judging the speed of the oncoming car, the “local rules” dictate that once you have gotten in the way of the oncoming vehicle, it will slow down and wait for you. If you don’t pull in front of it, it will speed up. Getting the idea?
Now add to that the baby taxis and rickshaws. Baby taxis are actually small motored tricycles with a miniature cab over the back axle that appears to seat two. Not for Bangladeshis – they routinely get 3-4 people in by being small, crowding together and sitting on each others’ laps. For every car on the road, add in 2-3 additional baby taxis that dart in and out of traffic lanes, occlude any space left between cars side-to-side, and sometimes go in the wrong lane into oncoming traffic.
Next we have the rickshaws as seen in the pictures below. There are several million of these in the streets of the Dhaka city district on a daily basis. They are pedal tricycles with single gear, that carry two people perched high above the rear axle. Although quaint in appearance, they are fairly dangerous with a high center of gravity and easy tipping if a sharp turn is taken. The rickshaw drivers are everywhere, 10-30 on every block of every street. Any Westerner seen walking is seen as “needing” a ride, so any vacant rickshaw passed brings on non-stop hawking to give a ride. A short ride of less than one mile is about 30 cents. Like the baby taxis they ride anywhere in the road, in the middle of intersections, against traffic, between cars, but not on the few sidewalks that are found. They must be as aggressive as the cars to turn or change lanes. In the Bangladeshi system, any accident involving a rickshaw and car is automatically the fault of the car driver. After accidents, large crowds of pedestrians are known to form around the involved parties, and sometimes mob rule leads to throwing rocks or bricks at the offending driver, despite the rickshaw driver being at fault much of the time.
Lastly, there are the thousands and thousands of pedestrians on every street during commuting hours. They walk on sidewalks, in the streets both with and against traffic. Crossing a lane of traffic is a daily act of devout faith for walkers. When a car is coming toward you, putting up your hand defensively brings on a prolonged honking, but also the slowing of the car.
Despite all of this, bad accidents are fairly uncommon. Why? One reason is that the norm is absolute defensive, but aggressive road behavior. Not paying strict attention to traffic all around is not an option. The other reason is that the whole system creeps along at 3-5 miles an hour on most city streets. My nurse lives about 6 miles from our health center. On a Friday morning (day of prayer, all shops closed, first day of the weekend) it takes 10 minutes to cover the distance. Most days she needs 1 ½ - 2 hours for her commute home!
This is why most Western diplomats and business people that live in Dhaka have a hired driver. They are quite skilled, patient, and appropriately aggressive. For $100 per month, they will drive you anywhere you want to go, whenever you need to go. Since no parking can be found, they will simple creep around the neighborhood while you are shopping. They will also keep the car gassed up, maintained, and hand-washed at all times. The traffic is also the reason that most diplomats live in the “diplomatic enclave”, and work is less than one mile away for most.
Learning about traffic in Dhaka is all part of the fun. After just 10 days in Dhaka, what seemed strange and uncomfortable at first is already becoming the “new norm”. Survival here is mostly a matter of resetting expectations, being a careful observer of differences, and adjusting behaviors as needed. I sold my Volvo in Washington, and a 2006 Honda Fit with a right-hand steering wheel is arriving by boat from an exporter in Japan in several weeks. I guess I will start looking for a driver to hire, but rest assured I am game to give driving in Dhaka a try!
Mike
Whoever gets to a narrow spot, a turn against traffic or a passing opportunity first -- wins. When it is bumper to bumper traffic, that means if you don’t nudge the nose of your car in front of the neighboring vehicle, you will sit still for hours. Honking is constant on every street, either to fend off an encroaching driver or bicycle rickshaw, or to warn pedestrians walking out in the traffic lanes that you are about to run them over if they don’t move aside (usually into a puddle…). Sitting still in traffic when everyone else expects you to poke your car into oncoming traffic also unleashes a barrage of community honking. Remember that driving is on the left side of the road here. If you are making a right turn, against oncoming traffic, local custom dictates that you do that with ANY break in oncoming traffic. Although you may be sure to be hit by judging the speed of the oncoming car, the “local rules” dictate that once you have gotten in the way of the oncoming vehicle, it will slow down and wait for you. If you don’t pull in front of it, it will speed up. Getting the idea?
Now add to that the baby taxis and rickshaws. Baby taxis are actually small motored tricycles with a miniature cab over the back axle that appears to seat two. Not for Bangladeshis – they routinely get 3-4 people in by being small, crowding together and sitting on each others’ laps. For every car on the road, add in 2-3 additional baby taxis that dart in and out of traffic lanes, occlude any space left between cars side-to-side, and sometimes go in the wrong lane into oncoming traffic.
Next we have the rickshaws as seen in the pictures below. There are several million of these in the streets of the Dhaka city district on a daily basis. They are pedal tricycles with single gear, that carry two people perched high above the rear axle. Although quaint in appearance, they are fairly dangerous with a high center of gravity and easy tipping if a sharp turn is taken. The rickshaw drivers are everywhere, 10-30 on every block of every street. Any Westerner seen walking is seen as “needing” a ride, so any vacant rickshaw passed brings on non-stop hawking to give a ride. A short ride of less than one mile is about 30 cents. Like the baby taxis they ride anywhere in the road, in the middle of intersections, against traffic, between cars, but not on the few sidewalks that are found. They must be as aggressive as the cars to turn or change lanes. In the Bangladeshi system, any accident involving a rickshaw and car is automatically the fault of the car driver. After accidents, large crowds of pedestrians are known to form around the involved parties, and sometimes mob rule leads to throwing rocks or bricks at the offending driver, despite the rickshaw driver being at fault much of the time.
Lastly, there are the thousands and thousands of pedestrians on every street during commuting hours. They walk on sidewalks, in the streets both with and against traffic. Crossing a lane of traffic is a daily act of devout faith for walkers. When a car is coming toward you, putting up your hand defensively brings on a prolonged honking, but also the slowing of the car.
Despite all of this, bad accidents are fairly uncommon. Why? One reason is that the norm is absolute defensive, but aggressive road behavior. Not paying strict attention to traffic all around is not an option. The other reason is that the whole system creeps along at 3-5 miles an hour on most city streets. My nurse lives about 6 miles from our health center. On a Friday morning (day of prayer, all shops closed, first day of the weekend) it takes 10 minutes to cover the distance. Most days she needs 1 ½ - 2 hours for her commute home!
This is why most Western diplomats and business people that live in Dhaka have a hired driver. They are quite skilled, patient, and appropriately aggressive. For $100 per month, they will drive you anywhere you want to go, whenever you need to go. Since no parking can be found, they will simple creep around the neighborhood while you are shopping. They will also keep the car gassed up, maintained, and hand-washed at all times. The traffic is also the reason that most diplomats live in the “diplomatic enclave”, and work is less than one mile away for most.
Learning about traffic in Dhaka is all part of the fun. After just 10 days in Dhaka, what seemed strange and uncomfortable at first is already becoming the “new norm”. Survival here is mostly a matter of resetting expectations, being a careful observer of differences, and adjusting behaviors as needed. I sold my Volvo in Washington, and a 2006 Honda Fit with a right-hand steering wheel is arriving by boat from an exporter in Japan in several weeks. I guess I will start looking for a driver to hire, but rest assured I am game to give driving in Dhaka a try!
Mike
Sunday, August 17, 2008
Arrival in Dhaka
Road No. 5, Baridhara, Dhaka, Bangladesh
Park, small lake in Baridhara
Modern apartment building in Baridhara
(note the multiple overhead cables, wires)
Present-day construction methods in Dhaka
There are just over 80 Americans at the Embassy and several hundred locally employed staff. I have now met many of them and am learning names and faces as quickly as I can. I feel very welcome. People are very friendly, helpful and appreciative of the health unit’s contribution to the community. The first days are filled with briefings of many departments of the State Department, along with getting to know other neighbors in the Embassy building, including a small contingent of Marines and a moderately large office of USAID (United States Agency for International Development). Getting everything in order with Human Resources, Housing and Transportation also filled several days.
In addition to learning the ropes of the Embassy, it was time to get rolling in the health unit. I have an excellent staff that includes two part-time American nurses, a local nurse, receptionist and lab technician. We began seeing some patients in between other meetings right away the first day. That feels good, after being out of the exam room since April at Family Practice Medical Center in Willmar. I appreciate the training I received while in Washington as preparation for the relatively independent practice I will operate here. I will be meeting local doctors and touring several hospitals in the coming weeks to size up the local resources and the time I spent in Singapore lends perspective about what illnesses can be treated here, there, or in the States. There is a basic electronic records system that is available to all of us docs in the State Department, but it hasn’t been in use yet here. I have now started with that and it is working well. I am sure there will be other opportunities to grow and improve the health unit in our service to our local patients.
I am living in a first floor duplex about seven blocks from the Embassy in a residential neighborhood called Baridhara. It is one of three nearby neighborhoods that make up the diplomatic enclave. It is an 8-10 minute walk to the Embassy, and many diplomats from a wide number of countries live here in proximity to their embassies. In several weeks I will move to a spacious 4-bedroom apartment just two blocks from the Embassy, across the street from the Chinese, Japanese, and British Embassies. All of the homes and apartments here are built very closely together, with small yards and patios, but often with roof-top garden terraces. Construction is all reinforced, poured concrete with a variety of facings. Many houses in the neighborhood are being replaced with 4-7 story apartment buildings (to gather higher rent per square meter of land) and all of the properties are surrounded by high cement walls, with wrought iron or steel gates to the driveways. Fortunately there are several nice parks nearby. Each property employs local guards that open and close the gates and watch the outside of the property throughout the day and night. Some of the guards double as gardeners for the people employing them. Most people here also employ a private driver, and a bearer/cook. More about the driver in the next post. The bearer is a person, usually male, who cleans house, does laundry, ironing, household maintenance and runs errands. In smaller households, cooking is also done, and in larger households a separate cook is hired. In most households, at least one of the house helpers lives on-site in a 12X12 foot room with small bathroom and gas cooking flame adjacent. This is accessible from the backyard.
Hard to imagine having so much help around, isn’t it? Since I arrived I have had over a dozen people patiently waiting outside my gate for several hours in the hopes of presenting me with his or her papers when I get home from work. They hope I will hire them. A cook/bearer live-in has a salary of $125-150 per month, a driver $100, and a full-time gardener $75-80. This is one of the best paying jobs people without much formal education can get. The top quality workers have been passed from one diplomatic family to another over many years as diplomats move from post to post every 2-3 years. I have interviewed three bearer/cook candidates and checked out references. I will likely hire someone in another week. One of the advantages of having this helper is his ability to do shopping on the local market, knowing the right local stands to buy produce and meat at and getting a far better price than a foreigner could bargain for. I shall see how things work out.
Overall, the first week has been a success. I feel comfortable with the job and the people I work with. I am intrigued with the culture and will learn to appreciate it more and more over time. I have begun to learn some basic Bangla phrases. I have been able to talk to my family readily on the phone, but found Skype to work even better once I had internet at home. If you haven’t signed up for free Skype service at home, it’s easy and allows for free communication around the world over the internet. My Skype name is “mike.mo54”. Send me an invite and then we can visit. Remember that Dhaka is 11 hours ahead of Minnesota.
Next post, I will write about traffic, local culture, and local recreation opportunities.
Mike
Dhaka
Saturday, August 16, 2008
Streets scenes in Dhaka
Decorated bicycle rickshaws abound 
Buses are small, crowded and banged up!
Beggars keep motorists company at busy intersections
Saturday, August 9, 2008
Scenes from Singapore
Singapore - the "Garden City"
While making my way to Dhaka I had a three day stopover in Singapore. It has been a fascinating visit. The journey here is long. 13 hours flying time to Narita, Japan, two hour layover, then another 7 hours to Singapore journeying westward (one can also travel eastward via London, it only takes an extra hour…).
Singapore is a “city-state” that has been inhabited for centuries, but developed into a modern state as a British colony. It has been independent since 1965, and today is Singapore’s “National Day”, full of open air concerts, a huge parade and dazzling fireworks displays. It has much in common with Western democracies, and yet is different. Singapore has an authoritarian form of governance, but follows free market economic principles and strict adherence to “rule of law” and freedom from corruption. They offer the death penalty for trafficking in illegal drugs. While riding in the taxi to my hotel at 1:00 am several days ago, the taxi driver reminded not to litter while here. “The first offense is up to $1000 fine, the second offence is up to $6000 fine plus 6 hours public service raking in public gardens!” He went on to explain that keeping this island nation clean and tidy “just becomes a habit”. Clean and tidy it is…the city is sparking clean, very green and lush, with towering apartment buildings and offices rising up from meticulously maintained tropical gardens.
Singapore lies very close to the equator and has a true tropical climate. There is very little day-to-day variation in temperature (usually 85-92 degrees) and high humidity with a brief shower many afternoons. People tolerate the heat well – but one quickly learns that the purposeful American gait is simply too fast and draining. Asians move at a much more leisurely stroll throughout the city, conserving energy and not even appearing to get hot and sweaty in the process.
There are four national languages in Singapore – English, Mandarin, Malay and Tamil. This reflects only some of the many ethnic groups that have inhabited the region for centuries. All children must learn at least two languages, but many island-dwellers speak all four and quickly adopt the most comfortable language with whoever they are speaking with. Singapore prides itself on hosting people from all over the world with equal standing for all.
The American Embassy sits on a small hill nestled between the Australian and British Embassies. I spent yesterday there meeting with my colleagues in MED services. The network of physicians and hospitals here is of very high quality and Singapore is one of four world-wide “medevac centers” used by the State Department to support the health of our embassy employees and their families. A medical evacuation is often not as urgent as the name suggests. If someone in Dhaka needs specialist consultation and no trained physician is available in Bangladesh, I can arrange for outpatient appointments in Singapore as an alternative to flying the patient to the United States. Rarely, a patient needs an emergency trip to Singapore (think worsening angina and the need for angiography) where special flying ambulances are utilized after initial stabilization in a Dhaka hospital occurs. While here in Singapore I reviewed medevac procedures, met all the personnel I will be dealing with over the phone and via email, and toured local hospital facilities.
Today was a “free day” prior to arrival in Dhaka tomorrow. Taking a city tour helped me get acquainted with Little India, Chinatown, the concert/theatre venue named the Esplanade, the water-spouting "Merlion" (head of a lion on the body of a fish, the city's symbol), Mount Faber, and the beautiful Botanical Gardens. Food adventures include cuisine from all over Asia, and I made a point to try teriyaki crocodile, but chose to pass on the fishhead soup!
Tomorrow morning, it's off to Dhaka. It is three hours by plane, with a short stop in Bangkok, Thailand. I am ready to get to work, meet my staff in the health unit and begin to get to know the embassy community I will help to care for over the next two years. The transition from the beauty and prosperity that is modern-day Singapore to Third World Bangladesh will likely be a stunning contrast. More on that later...
Mike, Singapore
Singapore is a “city-state” that has been inhabited for centuries, but developed into a modern state as a British colony. It has been independent since 1965, and today is Singapore’s “National Day”, full of open air concerts, a huge parade and dazzling fireworks displays. It has much in common with Western democracies, and yet is different. Singapore has an authoritarian form of governance, but follows free market economic principles and strict adherence to “rule of law” and freedom from corruption. They offer the death penalty for trafficking in illegal drugs. While riding in the taxi to my hotel at 1:00 am several days ago, the taxi driver reminded not to litter while here. “The first offense is up to $1000 fine, the second offence is up to $6000 fine plus 6 hours public service raking in public gardens!” He went on to explain that keeping this island nation clean and tidy “just becomes a habit”. Clean and tidy it is…the city is sparking clean, very green and lush, with towering apartment buildings and offices rising up from meticulously maintained tropical gardens.
Singapore lies very close to the equator and has a true tropical climate. There is very little day-to-day variation in temperature (usually 85-92 degrees) and high humidity with a brief shower many afternoons. People tolerate the heat well – but one quickly learns that the purposeful American gait is simply too fast and draining. Asians move at a much more leisurely stroll throughout the city, conserving energy and not even appearing to get hot and sweaty in the process.
There are four national languages in Singapore – English, Mandarin, Malay and Tamil. This reflects only some of the many ethnic groups that have inhabited the region for centuries. All children must learn at least two languages, but many island-dwellers speak all four and quickly adopt the most comfortable language with whoever they are speaking with. Singapore prides itself on hosting people from all over the world with equal standing for all.
The American Embassy sits on a small hill nestled between the Australian and British Embassies. I spent yesterday there meeting with my colleagues in MED services. The network of physicians and hospitals here is of very high quality and Singapore is one of four world-wide “medevac centers” used by the State Department to support the health of our embassy employees and their families. A medical evacuation is often not as urgent as the name suggests. If someone in Dhaka needs specialist consultation and no trained physician is available in Bangladesh, I can arrange for outpatient appointments in Singapore as an alternative to flying the patient to the United States. Rarely, a patient needs an emergency trip to Singapore (think worsening angina and the need for angiography) where special flying ambulances are utilized after initial stabilization in a Dhaka hospital occurs. While here in Singapore I reviewed medevac procedures, met all the personnel I will be dealing with over the phone and via email, and toured local hospital facilities.
Today was a “free day” prior to arrival in Dhaka tomorrow. Taking a city tour helped me get acquainted with Little India, Chinatown, the concert/theatre venue named the Esplanade, the water-spouting "Merlion" (head of a lion on the body of a fish, the city's symbol), Mount Faber, and the beautiful Botanical Gardens. Food adventures include cuisine from all over Asia, and I made a point to try teriyaki crocodile, but chose to pass on the fishhead soup!
Tomorrow morning, it's off to Dhaka. It is three hours by plane, with a short stop in Bangkok, Thailand. I am ready to get to work, meet my staff in the health unit and begin to get to know the embassy community I will help to care for over the next two years. The transition from the beauty and prosperity that is modern-day Singapore to Third World Bangladesh will likely be a stunning contrast. More on that later...
Mike, Singapore
Sunday, August 3, 2008
Life in Washington
It has not been "all work, no play" in Washington this summer. In fact, it has been great fun to get well acquainted with our nation's capital. I drove here in early June and have now sold the Volvo locally just prior to leaving for Bangladesh. Laura and I have purchased a Honda Fit with right-hand steering that is being shipped from Japan to Bangladesh. Bangladesh is part of former British India and still has left-side driving on its roads. We will use this for two years and then sell it on the way to our next post.
The State Department rents apartments for new hires to stay in during training. The "Oakwood Apartments" in Falls Church, Virginia are near the Foreign Service Institute and blocks away from a Metro stop. The two bedroom apartment I have had has been great for the visitors I have had through the summer. Laura and daughter Mary spent ten days here at the end of June, participating in the Security Overseas Seminar and researching our upcoming posting to Bangladesh. My son, Paul, and his fiancee, Carly, came out for 4th of July weekend and we all enjoyed spending that holiday together. We were joined by Phillip, Carly's brother, along with 500,000 other people for fireworks on the National Mall!
I did some fun weekend traveling throughout the summer, with short trips to Monticello (home of Thomas Jefferson near Charlottesville, VA), the seashore at Ocean City, Maryland, and Mount Vernon. I made a weekend Amtrak trip to Manhattan to visit my aunt Missy. I enjoyed a weekend visit with sister Patty from Florida that included plenty of traditional nearby sightseeing. A fun highlight of the summer was the Segway Tour of the capital I took with family in early July. Laura flew out to spend this past weekend with me and we enjoyed a great date at the Strathmore Music Center hearing the Baltimore Symphony in a Gershwin/Bernstein program. We then spent a wonderful day together enjoying the spendor of Shenandoah National Park.
Mike, Washington, DC
The State Department rents apartments for new hires to stay in during training. The "Oakwood Apartments" in Falls Church, Virginia are near the Foreign Service Institute and blocks away from a Metro stop. The two bedroom apartment I have had has been great for the visitors I have had through the summer. Laura and daughter Mary spent ten days here at the end of June, participating in the Security Overseas Seminar and researching our upcoming posting to Bangladesh. My son, Paul, and his fiancee, Carly, came out for 4th of July weekend and we all enjoyed spending that holiday together. We were joined by Phillip, Carly's brother, along with 500,000 other people for fireworks on the National Mall!
I did some fun weekend traveling throughout the summer, with short trips to Monticello (home of Thomas Jefferson near Charlottesville, VA), the seashore at Ocean City, Maryland, and Mount Vernon. I made a weekend Amtrak trip to Manhattan to visit my aunt Missy. I enjoyed a weekend visit with sister Patty from Florida that included plenty of traditional nearby sightseeing. A fun highlight of the summer was the Segway Tour of the capital I took with family in early July. Laura flew out to spend this past weekend with me and we enjoyed a great date at the Strathmore Music Center hearing the Baltimore Symphony in a Gershwin/Bernstein program. We then spent a wonderful day together enjoying the spendor of Shenandoah National Park.
Mike, Washington, DC
Preparing for the Foreign Service
Training began with 81 other newly hired Foreign Service Specialists. All of these individuals bring certains skills to the Foregn Servce from the private sector or previous military or governmental service. Our first three weeks of training covered a myriad of topics regarding the central mission and operation of the Foreign Service, operational procedures related to being a government employee and saftey issues regarding work and life overseas.
The mission of the State Department is to "create a more secure, democratic, and prosperous world for the benefit of the American people and the international community".
Orientation occurs at the Foreign Service Institute located on a beautiful campus in Arlington, Virginia. It is clear that the US government is a LARGE organization and with that comes a hefty amount of bureaucracy and paperwork. I have learned the mantras, "be flexible" and "it depends" as core to success in this endeavor. Taxpayers can rest assured that accountability is important in the State Department, and much of the bureaucracy relates to meeting accountability standards. Topics covered during general orientation were broad, including such diverse subjects as diplomatic immunity, crisis management training, cultural awareness, language training, traditional protocol and many others.
The Foreign Service employs over 13,000 career employees, serving at over 250 posts around the world as well as in Washington and other domestic posts. Theses employees are served by over 30,000 Locally Engaged Staff at embassies and consulates around the world. In the Medical Services Office, there are about 50 physicians and 80+ health practitioners that serve in posts around the world. Many of these posts are in locations with minimal local health care services, while other posts are in world regional centers such as London and Singapore where specialty referrals or hospitalizations may be arranged. In my medical orientation I learned the many administrative tasks that will become routine in time, along with helpful review of food safety mangement, tropical illnesses (malaria, dengue fever, diarrheal diseases, etc) and new information regarding areas such bioterrorism.
Along the way I have met many fascinating people with a host of experiences and backgrounds. Many have grown up or lived overseas in the past. It is common for State Department employees to speak 2-5 languages after working through their international careers. Many employees wed foreign born spouses. Stories they share can be funny, heartwarming, or alarming. It has been fun to gain insights about life overseas from these new friends, and I know Laura and I will continue to meet great people from all over the world in this adventure.
I write this with a day left prior to travel. I feel equipped and "ready for launch". I have developed relationships with the varioius officers that work at MED central office and feel ready to access the resouces I need when I need them. So, without further ado, "Dhaka, here I come!"
The mission of the State Department is to "create a more secure, democratic, and prosperous world for the benefit of the American people and the international community".
Orientation occurs at the Foreign Service Institute located on a beautiful campus in Arlington, Virginia. It is clear that the US government is a LARGE organization and with that comes a hefty amount of bureaucracy and paperwork. I have learned the mantras, "be flexible" and "it depends" as core to success in this endeavor. Taxpayers can rest assured that accountability is important in the State Department, and much of the bureaucracy relates to meeting accountability standards. Topics covered during general orientation were broad, including such diverse subjects as diplomatic immunity, crisis management training, cultural awareness, language training, traditional protocol and many others.
The Foreign Service employs over 13,000 career employees, serving at over 250 posts around the world as well as in Washington and other domestic posts. Theses employees are served by over 30,000 Locally Engaged Staff at embassies and consulates around the world. In the Medical Services Office, there are about 50 physicians and 80+ health practitioners that serve in posts around the world. Many of these posts are in locations with minimal local health care services, while other posts are in world regional centers such as London and Singapore where specialty referrals or hospitalizations may be arranged. In my medical orientation I learned the many administrative tasks that will become routine in time, along with helpful review of food safety mangement, tropical illnesses (malaria, dengue fever, diarrheal diseases, etc) and new information regarding areas such bioterrorism.
Along the way I have met many fascinating people with a host of experiences and backgrounds. Many have grown up or lived overseas in the past. It is common for State Department employees to speak 2-5 languages after working through their international careers. Many employees wed foreign born spouses. Stories they share can be funny, heartwarming, or alarming. It has been fun to gain insights about life overseas from these new friends, and I know Laura and I will continue to meet great people from all over the world in this adventure.
I write this with a day left prior to travel. I feel equipped and "ready for launch". I have developed relationships with the varioius officers that work at MED central office and feel ready to access the resouces I need when I need them. So, without further ado, "Dhaka, here I come!"
Mike, Washington, DC
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