Sunday, September 28
I’ve just enjoyed a varied and eventful weekend. Here’s a little “blow by blow” to share a sense of life here in Dhaka. The normal weekend here is Friday and Saturday, with Friday as the Muslim day of prayer. Last night was a special night of continuous praying through the entire night at the mosques, and today was therefore a governmental holiday so that people could sleep and rest after praying through the night. Now, as the holy month of Ramadan draws to a close on Wednesday or Thursday of this coming week (depending on the sighting of the new moon), there is eager anticipation of the Eid holiday. This is the time of great family celebrations and gift-giving, often with new clothes for all the children that will serve them over the coming year.
Preparation for the Eid holiday is much like the December Christmas rush for shopping and socializing. For the past three weeks there have been hours-long traffic jams throughout the city as everyone tries to do the shopping. Prices are nearly double what they were a month ago for clothes, taxis, and basic foods. This happens each year, and is likely related to the Eid bonuses most employees receive at this time. But now, as Ramadan is nearly done, the city of Dhaka literally empties. Almost everybody in the city of 15 million have close relatives in one of the small villages that contain the other 140 million Bangladeshi, and most people return to the rural areas for a 4-10 day visit with the relatives. Later this week I am told the streets will be empty and devoid of cars, buses and rickshaws.
These events figured into parts of the weekend I will now describe. I began the weekend with a 6 am phone call Friday about a mental-health type emergency for an embassy family. Making arrangements to deal with this occupied the next hour, but with the scene set for ongoing intervention later in the day. Weekly early Friday tennis still took place amidst the medical management. I play with a group that includes the Deputy Chief of Mission (DCM) at the Embassy, an attorney from Wisconsin who now works at the Embassy in the area of public diplomacy, an executive from Chevron who oversees natural gas production facilities in Bangladesh, and three business people from the U.S. who are engaged as project leaders for various NGO’s here in Bangladesh. The tennis is great fun and good exercise, but the burned calories are often quickly replaced as we enjoy a courtside breakfast spiced with engaging conversations that often turn to American politics and international developments of all sorts.
Friday afternoon was time for a shopping trip for some special Bangladeshi crafts or art that I will bring to Minnesota next week when I travel there for a continuing medical education trip. That meant jumping right into the busiest shopping day of the Dhaka year! It took time, but was fun. It is becoming great sport to engage in the bargaining that is part of every purchase here. My house steward and cook, Shah-Alam, joins me on these outings as a great coach and occasional translator. He is a wonderful man that I am pleased to employ and share time with. Later in the day I spent additional time with the family involved in the mental health issues, and provided a required briefing to the Ambassador about issues that are pertinent, but without compromising patient confidentiality. That can be an interesting dance at times.
On Saturday morning I joined others at the American Club to watch the Presidential debate, which began at 7 am here. Following that I enjoyed a very nice brunch at the home of a young couple from the Dhaka International Christian Church. They are both from Switzerland, here for 4 years working for an aid organization. They had also invited another couple, just arrived in Dhaka last week. They are both here studying on scholarships from the Finnish government in the area of Christian-Islamic relations. She grew up in Helsinki and he is from the UK. Again, this was an opportunity for stimulating conversation and a chance to learn more about the Muslim faith and how it relates past, present and perhaps future to the Christian community. I look forward to the ongoing opportunity for Christian fellowship, praise and prayer afforded by the DICC.
Saturday afternoon was slated for “project time” at the “flat” I am living in. I needed a small brick walkway built in a future garden that is currently lots of mud and weeds. The “gardener” that works here is slowly making headway on creating some nice plantings. He bought bricks and sand the day before, and I showed my driver and him how to dig out the mud/clay, place a deep bed of sand, place the bricks in a pattern, level the bricks, and then fill in between them with sand/granite fill. The finished product caused them to feel very proud, and they were quite surprised to have a “boss” who liked to join in and get dirty!
I enjoyed a good-bye potluck dinner last evening for one of the tennis-playing gang. The friendship and warmth that flows among the ex-pats that support and entertain each other is genuine and full of good humor. But everyone here is transient – usually here for 1-4 years. So saying farewell to some and welcoming the newcomers at the same time is also part of the fabric of life in Dhaka.
This morning started with a several-hour family counseling session in follow-up to events on Friday, followed by additional briefings with the Ambassador and consultation with other doctors that will provide some “coverage” while I am in the U.S. during the next few weeks. It is actually a joy to be able to spend as much time with patients as I wish or need without feeling any sense of time stress. While at the clinic, I spent several hours today working on review and writing of “nursing protocols” that allow our nurses to dispense certain medications to patients that fit select criteria in our absence. These protocols are in increasing use per nursing licensure laws, but need to individually edited, customized and signed on an annual basis. I got 30 clinical topics covered today and have 23 more to go some day this week!
The weekend was capped with an invitation to a Bangladeshi home - my first. I spent the Iftar (fast-breaking meal) with the Wahab family. Dr. Wahab is the German-trained internist that practices near the Embassy. He performs many exams on Bangladeshi visa applicants, and serves many Americans from the ex-pat community (who do not have privileges at the Embassy clinic). His wife, Afsane, is a delightful, talented lady who studied law in Great Britain. She prepared a traditional Bangladeshi Iftar that was a feast of fresh fruits, vegetables, curry-chicken, dal (made from lentils, not unlike split-pea soup), and a sweet rice pudding for desert. We were joined by their son, Tushar, age 24, who is studying fine arts in Adelaide, Australia and is home for Eid. Several others were there, including an Australian couple that work as principal and special education teacher at one of the international schools in this area of the city. This was a wonderful evening to make new friends and experience Bangladeshi culture firsthand while learning more and more about the traditions, history and people of this fascinating land.
All in all, a great weekend.
Sunday, September 28, 2008
Sunday, September 21, 2008
Sadabari, partly restored palace/manor house in Sonargaon, now a folk art museum.
Local squatters in the abandoned former Hindu merchant homes in Painam Nagar. Built around 1900, abandoned in 1947 as Hindus fled the area when East Pakistan (now Bangladesh) was partitioned from India.
Commuters on a small river boat along the Meghna River southeast of Dhaka. With frequent rain and hot temperatures when the sun comes out, umbrellas are used rain or shine.
Mount Everest thrusts through the cloud bank, dwarfing all the surrounding mountain ranges.
Busy in Dhaka, visiting Kathmandu
Sunday, September 21, 2008
OK, it has been almost a month since my last entry. That is a sign of getting acclimated and integrated into the local work and social scene. I am finding plenty to do and keep busy. Although I miss Laura and the kids daily, I find the days and weeks pass quickly. Laura and I can visit daily via Skype and it amazing how the distance shrinks with regular voice and video contact. I often make calls on Skype or Skype-to-phone early in the morning before work to catch people during the prior evening in Minnesota.
The past month has brought many new experiences. The car I had imported from Japan, a 2006 Honda Fit with right-side steering, arrived early in September. After carefully observing the amazing traffic system (see blog entry below) and watching every move the motorpool drivers made during the 4 weeks I got rides from them, I ventured forth. Driving on the left side of the road is actually very straightforward and hasn’t been difficult. Dodging 3-6 rickshaws every block IS a challenge, along with watching carefully for pedestrians who cross the street anywhere (often right in front of a stopped or slowly moving car) and walk along both sides of the street two and three abreast. It is especially difficult at night, because there are no street lights, and the rickshaws and pedestrians are very tough to see. I did hire a driver and that has been a great decision. Rakib is his name, father of four, and a professional driver for 19 years. He knows Dhaka and all of Bangladesh inside/out, knows the shortcuts, and handles the traffic without breaking a sweat. Since parking spaces are nearly nonexistent, having a driver lets you get out at the door of a shop or store and then get picked up when done without worrying about the parking.
Yesterday, Rakib drove two friends and me out of Dhaka to do some exploring of the surrounding area. That was great fun and we found our way to Sonargaon, an ancient capital of Bangladesh in the pre-Muslim Hindu period of the 13th century. Although there are no remaining structures from that period, there is a palace from the early 1900’s that has been preserved and is a folk art museum. We also drove to Narayanganj, a bustling industrial town along the Menghna River. There we hired a 16 foot motorboat for a “cruise” along the river where we enjoyed seeing river barges laden to “past full” with sand or clay along with small fishing boats that are built the same as they have been for hundreds of years. As we headed home, we encountered especially slow traffic and then saw riot police along with broken glass along the road. A front page story in this morning’s newspaper chronicled a riot that broke out when garment factory workers learned they were only to get a 25% monthly salary bonus for Eid instead of the 100% they felt they deserved. Most Bangladeshis receive the 100% worker bonus for Eid, which is the Christmas-like, gift-giving time of year that marks the end of Ramadan – the holy month of fasting and prayer for Muslims. Despite the ransacking of the factory and smashing up 6-7 cars, it is unlikely the bonus will materialize.
Another highlight several weeks ago was my first regional trip to Kathmandu, Nepal. I supervise and support the health unit at that Embassy. It is staffed by a nurse practitioner, nurse and receptionist. I saw a number of patients they had “saved up” for me. I had several very interesting and enjoyable meetings with Ambassador Nancy Powell. I met some of the local physicians. I was able to meet with the clinic staff and do some goal-setting for the coming year as we work on clinic management and quality improvement projects.
In the evening I enjoyed exploring the very old market region of Thamel Chowk, where Hindu and Buddhist shops abound. Here you can find great art works, handcrafts, many varieties of tea and mountain trekking gear, all at low prices. Prices are even lower after the bargaining. After asking the price and acting aghast at how expensive something may seem, the proper move is to offer 1/3 to 1/2 of the asking price. The bargaining continues from there, and the truly good deal occurs after you’ve left the shop and the shop owner follows you a half-block down the narrow, choked streets. Once a deal is struck, then all are on friendly and respectful terms and the shop owner is graciously thankful for having made a sale!
On the one hour return flight to Dhaka, I enjoyed soaring up and over the mountain range surrounding Kathmandu, part of the foothills of the Himalayans. We then passed up through the cloud bank. Just outside the plane I was amazed to see Mt. Everest jutting out through the cloud bank, absolutely towering over all the other nearby mountain ranges. It was one of the “WOW” moments that help me know that Laura and I made a great decision to join the Foreign Service and see the world while serving others!
OK, it has been almost a month since my last entry. That is a sign of getting acclimated and integrated into the local work and social scene. I am finding plenty to do and keep busy. Although I miss Laura and the kids daily, I find the days and weeks pass quickly. Laura and I can visit daily via Skype and it amazing how the distance shrinks with regular voice and video contact. I often make calls on Skype or Skype-to-phone early in the morning before work to catch people during the prior evening in Minnesota.
The past month has brought many new experiences. The car I had imported from Japan, a 2006 Honda Fit with right-side steering, arrived early in September. After carefully observing the amazing traffic system (see blog entry below) and watching every move the motorpool drivers made during the 4 weeks I got rides from them, I ventured forth. Driving on the left side of the road is actually very straightforward and hasn’t been difficult. Dodging 3-6 rickshaws every block IS a challenge, along with watching carefully for pedestrians who cross the street anywhere (often right in front of a stopped or slowly moving car) and walk along both sides of the street two and three abreast. It is especially difficult at night, because there are no street lights, and the rickshaws and pedestrians are very tough to see. I did hire a driver and that has been a great decision. Rakib is his name, father of four, and a professional driver for 19 years. He knows Dhaka and all of Bangladesh inside/out, knows the shortcuts, and handles the traffic without breaking a sweat. Since parking spaces are nearly nonexistent, having a driver lets you get out at the door of a shop or store and then get picked up when done without worrying about the parking.
Yesterday, Rakib drove two friends and me out of Dhaka to do some exploring of the surrounding area. That was great fun and we found our way to Sonargaon, an ancient capital of Bangladesh in the pre-Muslim Hindu period of the 13th century. Although there are no remaining structures from that period, there is a palace from the early 1900’s that has been preserved and is a folk art museum. We also drove to Narayanganj, a bustling industrial town along the Menghna River. There we hired a 16 foot motorboat for a “cruise” along the river where we enjoyed seeing river barges laden to “past full” with sand or clay along with small fishing boats that are built the same as they have been for hundreds of years. As we headed home, we encountered especially slow traffic and then saw riot police along with broken glass along the road. A front page story in this morning’s newspaper chronicled a riot that broke out when garment factory workers learned they were only to get a 25% monthly salary bonus for Eid instead of the 100% they felt they deserved. Most Bangladeshis receive the 100% worker bonus for Eid, which is the Christmas-like, gift-giving time of year that marks the end of Ramadan – the holy month of fasting and prayer for Muslims. Despite the ransacking of the factory and smashing up 6-7 cars, it is unlikely the bonus will materialize.
Another highlight several weeks ago was my first regional trip to Kathmandu, Nepal. I supervise and support the health unit at that Embassy. It is staffed by a nurse practitioner, nurse and receptionist. I saw a number of patients they had “saved up” for me. I had several very interesting and enjoyable meetings with Ambassador Nancy Powell. I met some of the local physicians. I was able to meet with the clinic staff and do some goal-setting for the coming year as we work on clinic management and quality improvement projects.
In the evening I enjoyed exploring the very old market region of Thamel Chowk, where Hindu and Buddhist shops abound. Here you can find great art works, handcrafts, many varieties of tea and mountain trekking gear, all at low prices. Prices are even lower after the bargaining. After asking the price and acting aghast at how expensive something may seem, the proper move is to offer 1/3 to 1/2 of the asking price. The bargaining continues from there, and the truly good deal occurs after you’ve left the shop and the shop owner follows you a half-block down the narrow, choked streets. Once a deal is struck, then all are on friendly and respectful terms and the shop owner is graciously thankful for having made a sale!
On the one hour return flight to Dhaka, I enjoyed soaring up and over the mountain range surrounding Kathmandu, part of the foothills of the Himalayans. We then passed up through the cloud bank. Just outside the plane I was amazed to see Mt. Everest jutting out through the cloud bank, absolutely towering over all the other nearby mountain ranges. It was one of the “WOW” moments that help me know that Laura and I made a great decision to join the Foreign Service and see the world while serving others!
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