Busy in Dhaka, visiting Kathmandu

Sunday, September 21, 2008

OK, it has been almost a month since my last entry. That is a sign of getting acclimated and integrated into the local work and social scene. I am finding plenty to do and keep busy. Although I miss Laura and the kids daily, I find the days and weeks pass quickly. Laura and I can visit daily via Skype and it amazing how the distance shrinks with regular voice and video contact. I often make calls on Skype or Skype-to-phone early in the morning before work to catch people during the prior evening in Minnesota.

The past month has brought many new experiences. The car I had imported from Japan, a 2006 Honda Fit with right-side steering, arrived early in September. After carefully observing the amazing traffic system (see blog entry below) and watching every move the motorpool drivers made during the 4 weeks I got rides from them, I ventured forth. Driving on the left side of the road is actually very straightforward and hasn’t been difficult. Dodging 3-6 rickshaws every block IS a challenge, along with watching carefully for pedestrians who cross the street anywhere (often right in front of a stopped or slowly moving car) and walk along both sides of the street two and three abreast. It is especially difficult at night, because there are no street lights, and the rickshaws and pedestrians are very tough to see. I did hire a driver and that has been a great decision. Rakib is his name, father of four, and a professional driver for 19 years. He knows Dhaka and all of Bangladesh inside/out, knows the shortcuts, and handles the traffic without breaking a sweat. Since parking spaces are nearly nonexistent, having a driver lets you get out at the door of a shop or store and then get picked up when done without worrying about the parking.

Yesterday, Rakib drove two friends and me out of Dhaka to do some exploring of the surrounding area. That was great fun and we found our way to Sonargaon, an ancient capital of Bangladesh in the pre-Muslim Hindu period of the 13th century. Although there are no remaining structures from that period, there is a palace from the early 1900’s that has been preserved and is a folk art museum. We also drove to Narayanganj, a bustling industrial town along the Menghna River. There we hired a 16 foot motorboat for a “cruise” along the river where we enjoyed seeing river barges laden to “past full” with sand or clay along with small fishing boats that are built the same as they have been for hundreds of years. As we headed home, we encountered especially slow traffic and then saw riot police along with broken glass along the road. A front page story in this morning’s newspaper chronicled a riot that broke out when garment factory workers learned they were only to get a 25% monthly salary bonus for Eid instead of the 100% they felt they deserved. Most Bangladeshis receive the 100% worker bonus for Eid, which is the Christmas-like, gift-giving time of year that marks the end of Ramadan – the holy month of fasting and prayer for Muslims. Despite the ransacking of the factory and smashing up 6-7 cars, it is unlikely the bonus will materialize.

Another highlight several weeks ago was my first regional trip to Kathmandu, Nepal. I supervise and support the health unit at that Embassy. It is staffed by a nurse practitioner, nurse and receptionist. I saw a number of patients they had “saved up” for me. I had several very interesting and enjoyable meetings with Ambassador Nancy Powell. I met some of the local physicians. I was able to meet with the clinic staff and do some goal-setting for the coming year as we work on clinic management and quality improvement projects.

In the evening I enjoyed exploring the very old market region of Thamel Chowk, where Hindu and Buddhist shops abound. Here you can find great art works, handcrafts, many varieties of tea and mountain trekking gear, all at low prices. Prices are even lower after the bargaining. After asking the price and acting aghast at how expensive something may seem, the proper move is to offer 1/3 to 1/2 of the asking price. The bargaining continues from there, and the truly good deal occurs after you’ve left the shop and the shop owner follows you a half-block down the narrow, choked streets. Once a deal is struck, then all are on friendly and respectful terms and the shop owner is graciously thankful for having made a sale!

On the one hour return flight to Dhaka, I enjoyed soaring up and over the mountain range surrounding Kathmandu, part of the foothills of the Himalayans. We then passed up through the cloud bank. Just outside the plane I was amazed to see Mt. Everest jutting out through the cloud bank, absolutely towering over all the other nearby mountain ranges. It was one of the “WOW” moments that help me know that Laura and I made a great decision to join the Foreign Service and see the world while serving others!